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Nikon d7000 with a Sea & Sea mdx d7000 housing.


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#1 WreckWench

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 07:11 PM

One of our members has just bought a brand new Nikon d7000 and Sea & Sea housing. And they want the awesome Sola 4000* video lights SD sells with special incentives due to our partnership with Light & Motion :wakawaka: (These babies will light up the entire reef if he wants too or on low level settings be perfect for close up macro shots!) WOW! :wakawaka:

He is getting two of them so needs flexible arms that will mount directly on his housing. The question he has is should he get neutral arms or buoyant arms (hollow tubes with air trapped in them) to offset the weight of the camera?

Since its a new camera he has no idea what the camera and housing weighs in the water. Does anyone have any idea what the weight in the water will be for this housing and camera set up? And should he use neutral or buoyant arms for his strobes/video lights?





*Light and Motion is reinventing the video light once again with a remarkably small all-in-one 4000 lumen light. With seven levels of power at 1/2 stop increments, this light can handle everything from large wide angle scenes down to illuminating the smallest macro creatures.

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#2 peterbj7

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 09:16 PM

Unless he can lay hands on one, only Sea and Sea can tell him the buoyancy characteristics of the housing/camera combination. If I were in his position I wouldn't guess but would try to find out the answer. IBUT if I were to guess I'd say the housing is liable to be buoyant, so I'd get solid arms. But that's just a guess.

The weight will of course vary with his choice of lens, which (presumably) will also determine choice of port and hence internal volume.

He could of course search Wetpixel to see if anyone has this combo.

Of course, if he really has to guess it'd be better to err on the side of positive buoyancy, as that can easily be offset by taping fishing weights inside the housing. It's far harder to add buoyancy to something that's inherently negative.

I hope he isn't one of the many unlucky people who get a D7k with a mirror mechanism that spatters oil on the sensor. There's extensive chat about this problem on POTN and Steve's.

Edited by peterbj7, 11 December 2011 - 09:24 PM.


#3 Scubatooth

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 10:06 PM

I use ULCS (Ultra light Control Systems) arms, the non buoyancy ones, and then i get the stix floats to add to the arms to adjust the buoyancy till its neutral. This is the best solution i have found to date for cost reasons as i can move the floats from one set of arms to another if i need to adjust the length of the arms for different set ups.

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#4 WreckWench

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Posted 11 December 2011 - 10:48 PM

The ultralights are the ones he is considering as they have the best set up for the sola lights. I think your suggestion is probably best. :thankyou:

Contact me directly at Kamala@SingleDivers.com for your private or group travel needs or 864-557-6079 AND don't miss SD's 2018-2021 Trips! ....here! Most are once in a lifetime opportunities...don't miss the chance to go!!
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"Imitation is the sincerest flattery." - Gandhi
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Kamala Shadduck c/o SingleDivers.com LLC
2234 North Federal Hwy, #1010 Boca Raton, FL 33431
formerly...
710 Dive Buddy Lane; Salem, SC 29676
864-557-6079 tel/celfone/office or tollfree fax 888-480-0906

#5 Scubatooth

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Posted 12 December 2011 - 12:58 AM

The ultralights are the ones he is considering as they have the best set up for the sola lights. I think your suggestion is probably best. :thankyou:



Your Welcome.

This is the set up that has worked best for me over time, from everything from the C5050 in Oly PT-015 housing i used during my internship in PR and the SD Philippines trip to my Aquatica 5DmkII housing. Then from using single 5" arms on each side to double 12" arms for superwide angle shots. One set of floats for all of my arms.

YMMV & my .02 cents

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