39 replies to this topic

[nextariel]

I'm planning on purchasing a couple of steel tanks. Since most come with a din value I want to know what to do. I like to travel out of country, so I don't want to change out my regulator. Is it safe to change the value on the tank? And how much does it usually run?

[chinacat46]

I have no idea what it costs but traveling with tanks is a PITA. You have to have the valve undone so they can inspect the inside of the tank. Thus the tank will require cleaning and inspection on both ends of your trip. Using the tank at home is no problem but traveling with tanks is a PITA.

[RichardB]

I'm planning on purchasing a couple of steel tanks. Since most come with a din value I want to know what to do. I like to travel out of country, so I don't want to change out my regulator. Is it safe to change the value on the tank? And how much does it usually run?

Most come with a convertable valve. It'll usually work with DIN by removing the adapter and yoke by leaving it in.

Who's tanks? I know PST come std. with the DIN/Yoke valve.

If not I have a couple Yoke valves I'll trade ya' :-)

[Lubold8431]

The new PST cylinders come with a convertible 232 bar DIN and yoke valve. Some of the Fabers come with the same type of valve. You would only have a problem if you bought steel cylinders with a 300 bar DIN. You should be able to request that the cylinders you purchase come with DIN/yoke valves. Most dealers would change the valve out for you, at no extra charge, if it does come with a standard DIN valve.

BTW, I think she is talking about keeping her Regulator yoke, so that when she travels she can use the standard aluminum 80 or 63 rental cylinders.

[ScubaDadMiami]

Assuming you are doing most of your diving at home, I would not change out the valve. I would keep it as DIN. Then, I would get your regulator converted over to DIN.

Buy an adapter for your first stage. When you travel outside the US, if you need to change over to yoke, just screw the adapter onto your first stage (no tools required and no visit needed to the dive shop to do it). Use it for the dive trip, and take it off when you get home.

Though the yoke connection is not unsafe, DIN is a better way to go. Your regulator won't dislodge by bumping inside a wreck, etc. like it can with a yoke connection.

[scubafanatic]

I'm planning on purchasing a couple of steel tanks. Since most come with a din value I want to know what to do. I like to travel out of country, so I don't want to change out my regulator. Is it safe to change the value on the tank? And how much does it usually run?

......I'd suggest you convert your reg 1st stage over to DIN, and then purchase a Scubapro DIN/Yoke screw-on adapter..........I've set up most of my regs that way ( Poseidon Odins and various Mares models, and an Atomics reg )......the Scubapro adapter is the best designed one out there and works on all regs, then you can use your reg on ANY tank in the world.

......on the issue of safety..........Yokes are fine up to 3000 psi or so..........DIN's are recommended for HP applications ( 3500 psi and above ) ...the area between 3000 and 3500 psi is a gray area as you are pushing against the recommended design limits of the Yoke configuration.

......as noted, DIN is more compact and more resistant to overhead impact damage.

.....as noted PST tanks come standard with a THERMO DIN/Yoke convertable tank valve, when you place your tank order you can specify the tank valve you want........there's very little price difference between tank valves.

Karl

[Genesis]

The only thing to be aware of with the converters is that depending on your configuration (e.g. BCD, etc) you can hit your head on the first stage with one.

The reason is that it puts the first stage a bit more "towards you" than a straight connection (either DIN or Yoke) does.

Also, the converter adds another failure point to your reg. DIN connections have a "captured" O-ring, but it too can extrude, as can a yoke. With a converter you have BOTH O-rings in the gas path instead of one! That's ok on a nice shallow reef dive, but I'm less comfortable with the security of my connection with a converter inline than I am with just a plain yoke as I've added yet another potential failure point.

What I'd do is get the DIN valves on the tanks, then convert the reg AND KEEP THE OLD YOKE. Its about a 5-minute job to change between the two and requires only a couple of ordinary tools - nothing major, nothing "magical" about it.

This way when you're local you have the DIN, but if you go on a trip where you know you will need to be able to use rental tanks you can just swap it back.

[Geek]

I assume what you are thinking is that you would use the tanks locally, but if you convert to DIN your regulators would be incompatable with yoke fittings that are found in all resorts.

The solution to this is a yoke adapter, which simply screws on to the DIN fitting and lets your regulator work with either DIN or yoke fittings. Converting your existing regulator to DIN and getting a yoke adapter should run about $50 depending on the brand of regulator. Virtually all recent models of regulators can be converted. I've been using a DIN fitting with my own tanks and a yoke adapter when travelling for several years. It presents no problem whatsoever. If I were you, I would make this change before purchasing the tanks. If your regulators need service, you can get it done at the same time.

For anyone buying new regulators, I highly recommend getting DIN fittings in the first place. DIN usually costs about $25 more than the typical yoke fitting, but then you are set if you ever decide to purchase tanks. DIN is superior to yoke because it can take higher pressures. You may also find fewer problems with O-rings, etc.

There are also tank valves that have inserts to convert the DIN fitting back to yoke, but this defeats the advantages of the DIN fitting, so I do not recommend this approach. The other issue with valves is if you are thinking of later converting to doubles, you need a right and left hand valve, and unless you order them that way right from the start, you will get the same valves on both tanks. There are other issues in setting up doubles best left to another thread, but if that is where you are headed, you need to get the correct valves up front.

If you are thinking of the PST high pressure tanks, I own several and have been pleased with them, but to use the higher pressure, DIN valves are required. The availability can be a challenge depending on the time of year, but they seem to be around at the moment. Scuba tanks are a very small part of the overall volume of most tank manufacturers, particularly PST, so they make a batch of them, then switch over to other products, e.g. medical tanks, etc. Occasionally there can be shortages that result before they switch back to scuba again.

[Diverbrian]

My regs are all DIN on the first stage except my argon bottle. I have exactly three tanks (including my six cubic ft. argon bottle) that have yoke fittings. The rest are DIN fittings as I would like to be able to use any of my regs in any of my tanks. I have a couple of converters if I have to dive with rental tanks that use a yoke fitting. I haven't had a problem yet.

The others seem to have covered the converter valve that comes standard on the PST's. This is why the PST's are rated for 3452 psi. It is legal to use a yoke valve up to that pressure. After that, many places require the fitting to be a DIN fitting. To be honest, I prefer DIN to yoke anyways. I find DIN more reliable.

[peterbj7]

Simply screw a DIN-Yoke insert into each DIN valve and use it as a standard Yoke valve. Many Yoke valves come like this from new anyway - all of mine in Belize did. You'll get the inserts at any decent LDS. Watch out for the size of allen key it's designed for, as they vary. Go for the largest size, as you can get more leverage to remove the insert later after it's corroded in.

This way you don't need to modify your regs at all, though next time you buy give serious thought to getting DIN valves and using them with an A-clamp adapter when you can't get a tank fitted with a DIN valve.

[RichardB]

I've seen very few problems with either DIN or Yoke. In 26 years I can remember having only two O-ring failures on a yoke and never on a dive. (But I change O-rings each year and/or when they start to look worn.) I've never had a DIN blow an O-ring.

From the engineering standpoint, the DIN is certainly stronger and inherently more reliable than the "conventional" yoke. But so are titanium bar stools. Which raises the question, "why do we need a titanium bar stool?" We don't, unless you're drinking with hippos or Rosey O'Donnel.

However, DIN is much more convenient, more compact, and if you're prone to exposing the tank to extreme conditions where you may drop the tank, bang it against something very hard or fill it way past the burst disk failure point you may want to consider the alternative.

It'll cost between $40 and $50 for each conversion and you'll want an adapter for standard yoke....another $25 to $50.

If you still want standard valves and your new tanks have the DIN or a convertable, I'll be happy to switch some of my conventional's with you. Bring them to the Memorial day trip.

[ryvor]

I'm planning on purchasing a couple of steel tanks. Since most come with a din value I want to know what to do. I like to travel out of country, so I don't want to change out my regulator. Is it safe to change the value on the tank? And how much does it usually run?

Hi Jill,
If you're getting steel tanks, I would recommend getting PST(Pressed Steel) either 80's or 100's. PST tanks are hot dipped galvanized which is far better than a painted steel tank. Also if you do get the PST tanks they come with Thermo valves that have the yoke inserts that you can take out if you ever decide to goto DIN. Other than that, you shouldn't have any problems and you won't have to make any modifications to your exsisting regs.

[Seawitch]

Nextariel,

Steel tanks are the way to go. I just tried them and love them!! I had the first stage on my regulator converted to DIN. I purchased the DIN-Yoke adapter ( the kind a few people have already mentioned). The DIN stays in permanently, and you just screw in the Yoke adapter when you travel or use AL tanks. Very easy!

SW

Edited by Seawitch, 19 May 2005 - 09:48 AM.

[Walter]

I also prefer steel tanks. All 7 tanks I own are steel (I do have custody of 5 AL tanks for now) and none of them have DIN fittings.

[Trimix2dive]

If the tanks come with DIN fitting on them, simply buy the thread-in adapter insert for the DIN to yoke conversion on the DIN fitting. They are relatively cheap.

Or order your tanks with a yoke fitting?

Hope this helps.