29 replies to this topic

[annasea]

I posted the following on the *big* board a few days ago and didn't get a single response. Hopefully, I'll fare better here at home.

My dive buddy and I will be road tripping through southern Florida (including the Keys) for a week starting the end of October.

As neither of us have been to the region before, I'm looking for some off-the-beaten-track suggestions not found in travel guides. Anything from *where to dive* and *what to see* to *where to eat* and *where to shop* would be most appreciated! (I like quiet, quirky, funky and affordable.)

Thank you for your thoughts.

Any suggestions? Feel free to PM as well.

[Desert_Diver]

When you get down to the keys, Tavernier is supposed to have slightly better diving than Key Largo does. I dived Key Largo with Aquanuts a few years ago, and it was OK but not impressive. All the reefs we hit in the park were pretty well beat up by storms, my best dives were furthest south. Tavernier is the next Key south of Key Largo, so they dive more of the southern spots in Pennekamp.

If you like the cold, you could overnight and in Jules' Undersea Lodge. It's a novelty dive & 'hotel'. They bought the old La Chalupa habitat and dropped it in a lagoon in Key Largo. There's a thread on it HERE! If you do it, STAY OFF THE BOTTOM of the lagoon! The muck takes several hours to settle if you mess it up. Yucchh. The vis wasn't too bad 'till the newbies stirred it all up. The diving in the lagoon is either tanks or hookah. I was there on the full moon, so the moon pool in the hab was in about 22 feet of water at high tide. Jules' probably fits the 'quirky' category.

I'd recommend against the dolphin dives on Key Largo. I was horribly depressed after seeing the tiny enclosures they kept the dolphins in... with near zero vis.

C'mon, folks! We have around 200 members in Florida. Someone local chime in with suggestions!

[Latitude Adjustment]

Capt. Gary at Conch Republic will take good care of you.
One day after the dives you need to drive down to Key West for the sunset on Mallory Sq.
Food, my favorite is Hobo's on Key Largo, the Fish House is also good but more $$.
At the south end of KL on the bay side is a little sign for the bird rehab center, walking the trails is a good way to see the sea birds and fauna up close.

[PerroneFord]

C'mon, folks! We have around 200 members in Florida. Someone local chime in with suggestions!

Yea true, BUT there is a HUGE problem.

(I like quiet, quirky, funky and affordable.)

Here we have a NEW diver looking for something that essentially doesn't exist in the area she'd visiting. Like going to Beverly Hills and asking where the thrift store is.

When I am in that area, I spend time down on Calle Ocho and at the News Cafe. Maybe a trip to Collins Ave. I wanted to visit the USN-UDT musem the last time I was down there, but that didn't happen. Somehow I don't think a trip to "Worth Ave" would be too cool, though I enjoy it when I'm in Palm Beach.

In terms of diving, it's hard to get off the beaten path when you really NEED to be in the well traveled sites for safety's sake. A low-vis muck site is not the place for a new diver working on buoyancy.

Anyone over in Naples? Hows the diving on that side?? Might be a cool trip across Alligator Alley.


There are 100 places in N.FL. to do something like this. Really hard to do in S.FL. from what I've seen.

Edited by PerroneFord, 05 October 2006 - 06:11 AM.

[matts1w]

Ok-

There is all sorts of quirky, weird, and funky in the Keys.

There is no off the beaten path in the keys. Heck- the beaten path is less than 1/2 mile wide so there is no way to hide anything except get off US1 and explore.

Cool bars- Sharkey's in Key Largo, Looe Key Tiki Bar, The Island in Marathon, Baracuda Grill in Marathon, The Wreck on Long Key, Loreli in Tavernier, and there are many more.

To be real honest, there aint much to do in the Keys, but dive, fish, eat and drink. The first time I went to Key Largo I was kind of shocked. It was NOTHING like the Beach Boys song makes it sound. At first glance the middle and upper Keys are...well... kind of dumpy UNTIL you get to know them. I love the Keys, and am probably going to move there in the next year or two. It just takes some time to figure out how things work. I had only been to Key West on a crusie when I was very young, so pictured all the Keys to be just like Key West. They aint nothin' like Key West.

Key West in a world all to itself. To me it is simply beautiful as I love the houses, art, and the attitude off Duvall Street. Duvall Street is the main street and features bars, bars, bars, and more bars. Oh and some T-shirt shops. If you have never been to the Keys go see Duval Street and Malory Square in the evening. It is very touristy, but fun. Go have a drink at Sloppy Joes, and Hogs Breath as they are world famous. Also realize the real Key West is not on Duval Street, but a few blocks away. My favorite, Schooner Warf Bar is about as close to old school Key West as there is. The further South you walk on Duval, the more risque things become. It is a cool mix as you can see some a bucnch frat boys, sorority girls, bikers riding their hogs in Speedos, tourists in black socks and sandals, and numerous transvestites all at once. I have a great time drinking rum while walking around and just watching people. They diving in Key West is marginal, but it is very worth spending a few days there. Good food, good drinking, fun, and VERY EXPENSIVE on duval Street.

Dive Key Largo and Looe Key- easy, shallow, and mellow.

Spots good for you in key Largo: Molassis Reef, French Reef, the Benwood, City of Washington, Northern Dry Rocks. If it is a calm day with good vis, try (if you are comfortable) the deep side of French Reef. It goes to 70ish feet, but simple to navigate and a great dive.

Hope this helps.

Edited by matts1w, 05 October 2006 - 07:49 AM.

[Walter]

Tavernier is the next Key south of Key Largo

Not quite. There are 2 Taverniers. Tavernier, the town is located on the southwestern end of the island of Key Largo (the town of Key Largo is about 10 miles NE of Tavernier). Tavernier spills across Tavernier Creek (not really a creek) onto Plantation Key where the Tavernier diver ops are located. The other Tavernier is Tavernier Key. Tavernier Key is an uninhabited island. You can see it as you head to the reefs out Tavernier Creek. It's the small island to your left as you travel out the channel.

Good dive ops include (off the top of my head) - Sunstar Aquatics in Deerfield Beach, South Florida Diving Headquarters in Pompano Beach, American Dream II in Fort Lauderdale, Conch Republic and Divers City in Tavernier.

[scubacat1]

there's plenty of good diving and lots of quirky, funky restaurants & small shops down here in Miami and the Keys.

motels: Ed 'n Ellens motel in Key Largo and Tavernier Hotel in Tavernier; restaurants: Key Largo's best is Calypso, Marathon's best restaurant is Keys Fisheries, both fairly inexpensive; diving: Conch Republic Divers in Tavenier or in Key Largo, use Quiesence Dive or Silent World; funky shopping: Marathon (Goofy Gecko is my favorite) and Key West, anywhere. Dolphin Research Center on Grassy Key near Marathon is a must-do, as is the Turtle Hospital in Marathon. I can post lots more but the posting would be several pages! I'll PM with specifics.

Have a great trip.

[ScubaDadMiami]

A low-vis muck site is not the place for a new diver working on buoyancy.

Actually, the "Brown Lagoon," as many locals call Jules' Undersea Lodge, is perfect for training. Max depth is about 20, and the viz gets worse throughout the day as more divers hit the water. It is like a large pool but is the perfect practice zone before going out in the ocean.

If you can handle it there, then the only new thing will be current, waves and surge in the ocean.

[Boatlawyer]

Anna-

I am going to post area suggestions as I get the time. There are so many "local" attractions, between Palm Beach and Key West, that you really need to take them section by section.

To start off you might want to "theme" your visit to certain restaurants. I know someone who is always on the lookout for the "best" key lime pie, conch fritters and rum runners, and tries them everywhere she goes in the Keys. I was born in Miami, and go the keys often, but there is always something new and quirky to experience. Some of my fav's:

The rum runners are great at Gilberts right at the Jewfish Creek bridge leading into Key Largo. Get lots of limes to mix up in them. The pulp freezes as you are drinking and makes these tine little key lime-sicles that just pop in your mouth! Their fritters are good, but the all time best I've found (so far) are the ones at Alabama Jacks on Card Sound Road- you have to tim eyour visit there, they close at 7 p.m. and it's really out of the way unless US 1 is jammed up. The conch salad is great too and there is often a biker chick singing the blues on the weekend which adds to the ambience! There is a cheap little cuban restaurant as you travel down a bit farther, I'll try to get the mile marker. Holiday Isle used to be a great place, but I have heard its been sold to developers. The Sandal Factory (not to be confused with the Key West Sandal Factory) is a cool shop for women's shoes, I always stop there and found these the last time: hipsoles.com. In Key Largo there is also a kayak and canoe rental shop which is a neat way to check out the mangroves on the gulf side.

For really cool gifts items, try The Rain Barrel in Islamorado. It is an artisan village. I don't know alot about the stretch from Islamorada to the lower keys, except that in Marathon you can rent a plane (if you or buddy has pilot's license) and fly out over the water for a once in a lifetime view of the incredible water of the keys. I think they also have a guy that will fly you. Things start to get interesting around Sugarloaf. There is always a funkfest happening at a dive called "The Boondocks." I once saw a kid playing a broiler pan with a spoon there (couldn't afford a washboard I guess). Be sure to stop in at Mangrove Mama's. In my opinion the best key lime pie on the planet. As you head toward Key West, check out Baby's (Southernmost) Coffee shop, the smell alone is worth parking the car for.

In Key West, some of my favorite spots are Mary Star of the Sea Catholic Church (but I like to check out the churches wherever I go). Also, the cemetary is pretty interesting. You also might want to check out the African cemetary which is a fairly recent discovery on the east side of Key West, away from Duval Street. http://www.melfisher...ps/cemetery.htm. The Mel Fisher museum is the best bang for your attraction buck. If you can only eat at one place in Key West, make it under the stars at Blue Heaven in the Bahamian Village section. You eat outdoors under a giant ficus tree, with colorful hens roaming around.

Duval Street is overwhelming, I stick to the dock area south of Duval, there is a little artists shanty town that used to be cool and Key West Fabrics is worth a visit.

Mobility tip: Eschew the scooters and rent bicycles. They are cheap and you can really enjoy the sights.

Edited by Boatlawyer, 05 October 2006 - 08:55 AM.

[annasea]

Well I'm sure glad I reposted my thread here! Thank you for your input! I'll be busy googling your suggestions over the next few days!

Thx for the heads up regarding the "muck" at Jules Lodge -- I'll be working on buoyancy with my coach for a day there. Had this not come up, I would have expected the conditions to be similar to what I experienced in the springs around Tallahassee ... but with salt, of course.

Like going to Beverly Hills and asking where the thrift store is.

LOL! Nice analogy, Perrone! I reckon this is indeed the case in the Keys but in Fort Lauderdale, there's the Swap Shop, Festival Flea Market Mall, Dania Historic Antique Shopping District and the Sawgrass Mills Mall. I'm most interested in the first three but I'm guessing the first two are full of new *crap* and the third is overpriced. Has anyone been to any of them?

Still on shopping... Theresa, the artisan village and artisan shanty town sound great! I love being able to support other artisans! As for shoes, the only pair I'm currently interested in are these. (Sadly, not available in Canada. Hopefully I'll have time to mail order them during my trip.)

Thx for suggesting the Benwood, Matt! My coach, Lesley, is planning on arranging a dive for us there -- "a nice shallow wreck with some great fish on it", she writes -- sounds delightful!

Any thoughts on diving around Fort Lauderdale versus the Keys? (We'll be diving there on the weekend.) Some of my readings elsewhere have left me with the impression that Ft Lauderdale has *better* diving. I watched the SCUBA DVD that I got from Fort Lauderdale's tourist website, sunny.org, yesterday but it wasn't all that informative.

Also, any good dive shops that I should be aware of? I won't be able to buy a BP/W this time, but I do need a beanie!

[Dive_Girl]

Thx for suggesting the Benwood, Matt! My coach, Lesley, is planning on arranging a dive for us there -- "a nice shallow wreck with some great fish on it", she writes -- sounds delightful!

Any thoughts on diving around Fort Lauderdale versus the Keys? (We'll be diving there on the weekend.) Some of my readings elsewhere have left me with the impression that Ft Lauderdale has *better* diving. I watched the SCUBA DVD that I got from Fort Lauderdale's tourist website, sunny.org, yesterday but it wasn't all that informative.

I agree about the Benwood. In fact, the warm water photo in my profile was taken on the Benwood!

In my brief comparison between diving off Fort Lauderdale/Miami and the Keys I preferred either the Keys or heading further North of Fort Lauderdale.

Have a great trip annasea and dive safe.

[Boatlawyer]

Anna-

Here is an outing that I vary during the "winter" months. It really gives a sense of "real' Florida, away from the beaches and reefs.

You have to start early in the morning about 5 a.m. and drive across Alligator Alley almost to Naples, then head north to Corkscrew Sanctuary. It is an Audobon preserve with tons of interesting plants and animals native to Florida, and a mile long catwalk. Like most nature experiences, early morning is best. Just google Corkscrew Sanctuary for the hours and a map. After Corkscrew you head a bit south, back over Alligator Alley and across Tamiami TRail (both are East West roads across the state), and head down to Everglades City, which is an old fishing village and full of quirky Florida history. Drive all the way to Chockaloskee which is the setting for Peter Matthiessen trilogy about a maverick pioneer Mr. Watson. Have lunch at the Seafood Depot, which has all you can eat gulf shrimp on a $6 salad bar, and very reasonably priced Stone Crab Claws. Then stop for a cocktail at the Rod and Gun Clubm which was built by Barron Collier, who was the Henry Flagler of the West Coast. Head back East via Tamiami Trail, and stop at Clyde Butcher's gallery. Clyde Butcher is Florida's Ansel Adams, known for breathtaking wall-sized black and white photographs. He moved to Big Cypress Park in the Everglades to grieve after his son was killed by a drunk driver, and never left. His Swamp Walks are locally famous. If you have any time and energy left, stop for a 7 mile bike ride at Shark Valley, another nature preserve in the Everglades with a paved road running throughout, you can cycle or take a tram through it. Lots of gators and key deer.


More to come...

Edited by Boatlawyer, 05 October 2006 - 01:08 PM.

[Scubatooth]

I will second the Clyde Butcher Gallery as i have seen some of his print on exhibition and they are truely stunning, and he ranks up there with Ansel Adams for his work. If im not mistaken he has some prints on display at either the Ft Lauderdale airport or at miami but i cant remember where.

as for the site of his prints they are huge if i remember correctly some of his test prints where like 16x20 and the finals where something in the 4ft by 6ft range

link to his site http://clydebutcher.com.

FWIW

[ScubaGypsy]

Ah so ya want quirky and inexpensive in the Keys? Well a favorite of my boys and friends when we visit is Robbies at mm 77.5. For a couple of bucks you can get a bucket of fish and feed the tarpons. It is a hoot, just watch out for all of the pelicans!

As far as first dives, certainly the Benwood is a nice site. But another popular site is the Christ of the Abyss statue at John Pennecamp.

[Hipshot]

For ten years, my annual dive vacations have been with Holiday Isle Dive Shop, in Islamorada. Dive The Isle

Guess where I'd recommend?

Rick