44 replies to this topic

[ScubaDadMiami]

How does the hand-held version that you mentioned compare/constrast to a Light Cannon?

I haven't tried one of these though I understand that the bulb is the same as that used by some of the other major player lights.

[PerroneFord]

Regarding the Oxycheq, the plan was to "hopefully" have it ready for DEMA. I spoke to the gentleman designing and building them over a month ago. He won't be a stranger to those of you familiar with the lighting game in High Springs. Guess he didn't get all the kinks out in time.

I tried one of the DR Handheld 10w HIDs at the Dive Rite Demo day. Seemed like a nice light, but I prefer to have my hands unencumbered when I dive, if possible.

[ncdiver43]

DR also now manufactures a hand-held version of this light (10 watt). No canister, metal body, and it uses standard batteries. This is a great light for travel especially where keeping total gear under a weight limit is an issue. Take the light with you without the batteries, buy a set of batteries at your destination, and bring back with you after disposing of the batteries. I just picked up one of these this week, and I will carry it with me as either the ultimate backup light or as a travel light. Street price on it is about $350. Burn time ranges from about two to three hours (depending on battery).

Try turning one of these lights on at depth... 150'+. Its almost impossible.

WWPD

[6Gill]

I stopped by their booth, but I don't recall seeing it, and the people there didn't mention anything to me about it while going over their product line. Is it in fact out?

Regarding the Oxycheq, the plan was to "hopefully" have it ready for DEMA. I spoke to the gentleman designing and building them over a month ago. He won't be a stranger to those of you familiar with the lighting game in High Springs. Guess he didn't get all the kinks out in time.

As Perrone mentioned,the plan was to have it at DEMA.For what ever reason it didn't happen.

[mechanical31]

What kind of warranty would you offer against flooding and other issues? What are you thinking of charging for a 13.5ah 21w light?

I still haven't figured warranty out, but since it won't be a mass produced job and I plan on using superior materials. If we decide to start doing this as a viable new product line it would have a warranty comparable to other brands. Of course this is still in the beginning stages, but it is a go (OK'd by my partner) and if it works out we will be signing with SD as a business partner so as not to offend the great people here.
I am not sure about prices for a 21w yet, I will work my way up to there. But I do believe if I can produce in quantities of at least five they will be much cheaper than the gouging that is being handed out now.

Edited by mechanical31, 14 November 2006 - 08:08 AM.

[mechanical31]

Has anyone seen a screw on canister lid versus latches. I am thinking of going this route with double o-rings. Any feedback?

[Scubatooth]

Has anyone seen a screw on canister lid versus latches. I am thinking of going this route with double o-rings. Any feedback?

I have seen this on the OMS cannister lights at DEMA and i thought the screw on lid was a better idea as more holding onto the lid, also if a double o-ring was used that would keep everything sealed as well.

Just an idea.

Tooth

[Dwain Thompson]

Has anyone seen a screw on canister lid versus latches. I am thinking of going this route with double o-rings. Any feedback?

Double o-ring designs aren't any better than a single o-ring. This is strictly done for marketing. The key with canister o-rings is to replace them every 9 months or so.

Clean them, wipe the o-ring down before and after each dive with a clean cloth or a t-shirt. I do not use any form of lubicant on the o-rings, using a lube will cause sand and grit to stick to the o-ring. Then it's hard to keep the o-ring clean. Aways carry a spare canister o-ring in your dive kit, it's usually during your inspection of the light just before the dive that you find out that it's time to replace.

I recommend staying away from screw on lids. Ever get sand or dirt in threads on nuts or bolts???? This I have experienced on lights, had a hard time getting it apart. I have even had to help divers get there canisters open. Most light manufactures al around the world use a sealed or lid with clamps. The clamp design is more user friendly.

I'm not here to persuade anyone to purchase a light from me... but I will advise you on misinformation, untruth, versus marketing and sales pitches. So if you have a specific question or issue with anyones lights (doesn't matter which manufacturer), please PM me.

If I get enough Q&A I will post them.

cheers

Edited by Dwain Thompson, 20 November 2006 - 04:27 PM.

[6Gill]

Ask yourself what will a srew in lid do better then using latches?
Once you get a bit of depth the water pressure will keep the top in place.You don't need a really strong 'clamping' system.
Now you have to decide what type of thread to use.The ideal thread would be something like an ACME thread but that means a thick wall on the canister.To keep size reasonable you end up using a fine thread which is prone to damage,cross threading.Should the thread get damaged can you make it fixable or does it become a throw away part?
If I had to list people to listen/talk to about divelights Dwain would make it into the top 3.
By the way Dwain when's that light coming out?

[Dwain Thompson]

Ask yourself what will a srew in lid do better then using latches?
Once you get a bit of depth the water pressure will keep the top in place.You don't need a really strong 'clamping' system.
Now you have to decide what type of thread to use.The ideal thread would be something like an ACME thread but that means a thick wall on the canister.To keep size reasonable you end up using a fine thread which is prone to damage,cross threading.Should the thread get damaged can you make it fixable or does it become a throw away part?
If I had to list people to listen/talk to about divelights Dwain would make it into the top 3.
By the way Dwain when's that light coming out?

As with any new product to reach the market, had a few set backs... which have been worked out.

They will be out very soon. By the time I get the first production run and begin putting together and begin shipping we are looking at somewhere between the end of December to the middle of January.

[mechanical31]

Thanks for the input on threaded caps. I definately see the problems with sand and or dirt seizing and prematurely wearing threads. I just don't like the idea of clamps. I don't know why, but something is telling me even though it is the most widely used, it's not necesarrily the best. I have learned to listen to my instincts, but in this case they may be wrong. I'm going to have to actually think now

[iamrushman]

Has anyone seen a screw on canister lid versus latches. I am thinking of going this route with double o-rings. Any feedback?

I have seen this on the OMS cannister lights at DEMA and i thought the screw on lid was a better idea as more holding onto the lid, also if a double o-ring was used that would keep everything sealed as well.

Just an idea.

Tooth

just my two cents worth. i have an oms mini phantom, 10 watt hid. works well untill you need customer support. DO NOT BUY OMS UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES. i paid 0ver 600$ for my light two years ago, with nickle metal hydride batterires. now i need new battery pack, they dont have my battery pack any more, so they wanted to sell me lithiim ion for 350$ (absurd) went on the internet and got new batteries and charger for 150$. they are out to rape you. go with dive rite, i have one of these too, the clips are no problem.

Edited by iamrushman, 12 December 2006 - 10:26 AM.

[Scubatooth]

imanrushman

for the type of battery packs that would be used in a can light especially Li-ion thats not a bad price considering that raw cells arent cheap and the good ones are much more. according to my contact average price of a li-ion cell right now is $20 a piece and thats for AA size so the C or D size used in canlights is going to be more. Plus with technology advancing Li-ion is going to take over and NIMH will be left behind as LI-ion cells dont self discharge that much over time and have better life and power curves then NIMH.

as for your battery pack whats wrong with it, will it not charge, not last as long, hold a charge for long after being charged, if thats the case thats normal for NIMH cells in that when fully charged a NIMH cell will self discharge itself to zero in a little over 2 weeks. If its a bad cell a try a batteries plus and see if they can disassemble the pack and find the bad cell and replace it, which would probably be a $50 fix.

also contact OTWdiver as he may be able to help you with the problem with the light

FWIW

Tooth

[6Gill]

The best deal on batteries and getting battery packs built is look in the yellow pages under batteries.Places that build battery packs for power tools and laptops.Bring in the container,tell them the amp/hrs you want or ask'em what they can pack into the canister.Up here I get the batteries(for dive lights) at less then half the retail price from the manufacture or dealer.These places can be a good cheap scorce of other batteries not only C's&D's put dive computer,camera batteries ect.I pay about 1/3 what the stores(supermarkets ect) charge.

[mechanical31]

I have a few good sources for batteries. If anyone is interested just PM me.