Just got back from 4 weeks in Costa Rica (Dec 14 - Jan 12) and had a complete blast. Before you get all excited and think that I have the diving down there dialed in, I have to tell you that I do not as I only dove 3 days… but that I had a great trip, good diving and some wonderful experiences.
Being winter was warned off diving the Caribbean coast due to the rainfall and resulting runoff/low viz. I looked into the Pacific diving and settled on going out with a dive shop located in Quepos – Oceans Unlimited (was recommended by a friendly SDer). I was impressed by the manner in which they communicated and the fact that they tried to hook me up with another dive operation (in Drake Bay) for my Isle de Cano trip when it was looking like they would not be able to get me out there. I was not disappointed by the operation & I was able to dive Isle de Cano and get in 2 days of local diving off Quepos.
The local diving was 35-65 feet with 25-55 foot viz. Water temp = mid to high 70’s (I dove in trunks and a rash guard shirt – should have had my full rash guard with me) We dove 4 sites within 10 miles of the harbor all were off small islets and were over volcanic rock. Spotted eels, turtles, boxfish and (yes – for you Kelly) some pretty blue fish… The current was light though there was quite a bit of surge (not unmanageable by any stretch).
Isle de Cano 45-80 feet with 40-55 foot viz. Same critters + some 4-5’ reef sharks. This trip involves about a 2 hour run from Quepos (100 mile – they have a fast boat) but you get to cross an area where humpbacks hang out in Dec-Mar (IIRC). We saw dolphins on the way out and humpbacks on the way back, so the time in the boat was not all badJ. Went on the island for lunch… the island does not currently have a wharf so all landings were made through the surf. The landing WAS WET – but there were no major problems with everyone in reasonable to good shape… this would be a concern though if mobility were an issue and (on the day I was there) the other operators were dealing with the landing the same way – I did not see anyone step from a boat to the beach.
Oceans Unlimited has three boats. The small zodiac was used one day but not on the trip I was on. All of my diving was from a 36ish foot rigid hull inflatable – twin 300’s so the boat does move right along. We had 1-3’ gentle rollers the entire time I was diving so the ride was nice and only one older guy (on checkout dives so +++ nerves) was even the least bit green. Entry was a backroll and re-entry was ladder (after passing all gear up) and no open deck to speak of… I was able to get up the ladder after shedding only fins but the majority of divers were passing up bc/tank before climbing aboard.
Dive staff was a mix of owners. Instructors and professional DMs with 1-2 trainees on all of the trips I went out on.
Gear – being down in Costa Rica for 4 weeks and diving on a limited basis I chose to leave my gear at home and used their loaner (no additional charge – maybe because of my good looks and charm) gear. Was adequate, but definitely made me appreciate my gear. There were a couple of issues with masks and fins but nothing that was unsafe or that ended dives.
All in all was glad I found this operation. The diving will not be for everyone – not the viz or range/quantity of sea life you might get in the Caribbean. The main issue would be with ease of accessibility from the boat and the capacity of the operation during high season. I was happy diving 3 days, but would have had a tough time justifying 5 days of 3-4 tank diving. Manuel Antonio Nat Park is 10 minutes down the road
Accommodations –run from 3-4 star on down. I stayed in a hostel that had singles (< 30 per night) – Wide Mouth Frog in Quepos. For a single traveler it worked great but not for everyone. No hot water (comes out of the pipes at low 70’s) and a bit of a young crowd. Plenty of equal to nicer places… just google them
A neat excursion but not necessarily a good single destination. Better to couple it with a trip to Cocos.
Now the reason I only had three days of diving in 4 weeks is because I was a busy (& scrappy) kid… La Fortuna for Arenal volcano, canyoneering, waterfalls, hot springs and rafting Rio Torro… La Plaz volcano, coffee plantations, and butterfly gardens, Manuel Antonio (Osa peninsula and Corcovado National Park will be next trip) and some awesome work in the Carpio slums (anyone that wants to do some work with a secular NGO – email me and I will hook you up)… all in all a great trip. I will be back and will use Oceans Unlimited and dive the Cocos – 36+/- hour run was a bit much for the time I was blocking out in my trip to dive… but for the hammerheads alone, I will be making the trip on my next time down – any recommendations on a good operation to dive there with????
