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Trying on a DUI...


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#16 BradfordNC

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 04:07 PM

I ordered the 40 gram Thinsulate. That should be perfect for South Florida. Just enough protection to keep me from freezing in the event of a suit flood with a long deco hang.


if your suit floods, the only thing in your favor will be the fact that whatever remains of your drysuit will prevent a constant exchange of cold water from running over your body.
but otherwise, your thermal protection will be absolutely none.

however, the good news is that in that warm South Florida water you will last long enough to do the deco hang and surface. you might not be comfy, but you will live. you could even float around lost out there for awhile and still be uncomfortabley ok.
OK, lets make a deal. If you stop telling me how to dive, I'll stop going down to the bus station at 2am to slap d***s out of your mouth.

#17 gcbryan

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 04:19 PM

I ordered the 40 gram Thinsulate. That should be perfect for South Florida. Just enough protection to keep me from freezing in the event of a suit flood with a long deco hang.


if your suit floods, the only thing in your favor will be the fact that whatever remains of your drysuit will prevent a constant exchange of cold water from running over your body.
but otherwise, your thermal protection will be absolutely none.

however, the good news is that in that warm South Florida water you will last long enough to do the deco hang and surface. you might not be comfy, but you will live. you could even float around lost out there for awhile and still be uncomfortabley ok.


That is incorrect. He will be warmer than if he wasn't wearing the Thinsulate or than if he was wearing a cotton sweat shirt.

Go hiking in the pouring down rain wearing all wool/polypro and then try it wearing all cotton.

#18 ScubaDadMiami

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 06:23 PM

Thinsulate retains 80 percent of its insulating capacity even when wet. So, I would be fine in most cases.

I have flooded a suit before and then stayed in the water completing decompression. Other than feeling wet, I had no issues with being cold. However, that was with 200 gram Thinsulate.

I am just not sure if the 40 will be enough when it's Winter. So, I will switch to the 100 if necessary.
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#19 BradfordNC

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 07:14 PM

so what company makes this wonder material you speak of?

i'd like to talk to them and see if i can borrow their flux capacitor or maybe their warp drive.

they are able to fold the space time continuam and suspend all laws of physics.

Thinsulate retains 80 percent of its insulating capacity even when wet.

wet is the key word here, and your not realy understanding the manufacturer's definition of wet.

a wet fabric is one that has been breifly exposed to liquid. like being sprayed with a garden hose for a second.

a soaked or drenched fabric is one that has been completely saturated in a liquid. like dunking a shirt or towel into a bucket of water for a minute and then pulling it out.

submerged is when a fabric remains in the water and hence every pore of that fabric filled with water.

in a wetsuit, the insulation is not provided by the rubber in the suit. if that were so then wetsuits would be made of rubber and not neoprene. the insulation is provided by the nitrogen bubbles in the neoprene. those bubbles create air spaces within the neoprene. those airspaces are insulating you from the water around you. the thicker the neoprene, the more bubbles of nitrogen providing insulation.

in a drysuit, your warmth is created by the same thing, an airspace. your different undergarments provide the varying degrees of warmth in the same manner. they trap air to provide insulation. without air spaces, they completely loose their insulation ability.

if, while wearing thinsulate, you were to jump into the water, and then get back on the boat, the excess water will drain off and due to the nature of the material, the airpockets will help you retain 80% of your heat or whatever they claim. this is because the magic of thinsulate is its design as a hydrophobic material. it doesn't retain water and moves the water to its surface where it can fall away or evaporate. when this happens, the airspaces return and you are insulated.

if your wearing a drysuit and it floods, you have completely lost all insulating properties of the thinsulate. the water has no way to drain off, nor can the fabric push the water to the outside, it has no way to "dry" itself, after all your in the ocean. (think how much deeper the ocean would be if there were no sponges in it)

when completely surrounded by water, as when a drysuit floods, heat loss is via conduction. the water is conducting heat away from the body. since the thinsulate relies on air to provide insulation, and there would be no air in a flooded drysuit, the thinsulate provides zero insulation in a flooded drysuit. unless of course you could pump the water back out.

now, if your drysuit remained mostly intact, it would prevent the outside water from rushing past your body and stripping away any water your body may slightly warm. but the water in your drysuit your body is now expending calories to heat, is efficiently conducting that heat through your drysuit to the colder water outside. it is thermodynamicaly impossible for you to get the water in your wetsuit to 98 degrees. yeah, you can piss in it, but that won't last long. your battling the ocean, and it is the biggest and most efficient heatsink on the planet.
as for any kind of "reflective" materials. these are a thermodynamic flop as well. yes, there are materials that reflect heat just fine on land, but they are reflecting convective heat.
it is impossible to reflect conductive heat.

i don't doubt the salesmen believed the claims he made. but he didn't understand what he was explaining.
the big wetsuit and drysuit manufactures leave their claims at intentionaly misleading.
they used to make flat out false claims, but scuba lab and a few other entities called them on it a few years ago, asking them to explain how they are suspending the laws of physics.

I have flooded a suit before and then stayed in the water completing decompression. Other than feeling wet, I had no issues with being cold. However, that was with 200 gram Thinsulate.
I am just not sure if the 40 will be enough when it's Winter. So, I will switch to the 100 if necessary.

and thats what it realy comes down to. your gonna ignore it or your gonna be misserable. if the suit is flooded, your sucking but unless your diving in some very extreme conditions, you'll live.

in the not so cold months when i dive dry i wear coolmax longsleeve shirt and pants. i don't like feeling the inside of the drysuit on my skin. and it provides a nice layer of insulation while in the water, and is light and cool out of the water.
when its cold, i wear polar fleece. very warm with little loft.

survival when completely immersed in water (flooded drysuit, not bobbing in the north sea in an exposure suit) depends on the water temp and the exposure time, not on what you are wearing. in most cases you have the time to complete deco (dive shouldn't be more than 90 minutes right?). course, not sure how that will work with a rebreather, you can realy rack up the time, but should be able to surface at any time right?

Go hiking in the pouring down rain wearing all wool/polypro and then try it wearing all cotton.

see earlier explanation. getting rained on is completely different from remaining submerged in water.
wool is naturaly hydrophobic. polypro is a synthetic designed to be hydrophobic. on land both will shed water and retain air for insulation. cotton will not. cotton will retain water and all the airspaces will be filled with water.

80% heat retention while wet i outstanding. and is only possible above sea level, and not submerged.

a wetsuit will not even provide 80% heat retention. the ocean conducts heat away from your body at to fast a rate.

if thinsulate could provide 80% heat retention while submerged or flooded, then you could wear it instead of a wetsuit.

Edited by BradfordNC, 24 May 2006 - 09:17 AM.

OK, lets make a deal. If you stop telling me how to dive, I'll stop going down to the bus station at 2am to slap d***s out of your mouth.

#20 ScubaDadMiami

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Posted 23 May 2006 - 09:46 PM

Per the 3M website: "What if Thinsulate insulation gets wet? It will still keep you warm and comfortable. That’s because Thinsulate insulation retains its insulating ability in damp conditions. Its fibers absorb less than 1% by weight of water, so it stays effective at keeping you warm – and it dries easily if it does become wet."

True, that does not say it will work if it is completely saturated with a constant flow of water moving through it. However, it would have to be one heck of a puncture in my drysuit to get that wet.

If there is something that is thinner, lighter and works better, please let me know. I'd be interested in adding it to my collection. :birthday:
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#21 ncdiver43

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 05:43 AM

the only fabric that I know of that will keep you warm when it gets wet (completly soaked) is wool... Iam a big fan of the weezle undergarment also, Ive had a couple of serious leaks, but no complete floods and my weezle has worked great..

#22 VADiver

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 06:25 AM

I've been using 200g thinsulate with a layer of poly pro underneath. The thinsulate seems bulky right now but as I dive the suit it seems to get better. I tried a set of Under Armor Cold Gear and the poly pro, but then everything felt baggy. Maybe I'll have to get some 100g and cut it down the middle.

Who makes the cool max stuff?

#23 BradfordNC

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 09:31 AM

Per the 3M website: "What if Thinsulate insulation gets wet? It will still keep you warm and comfortable. That’s because Thinsulate insulation retains its insulating ability in damp conditions. Its fibers absorb less than 1% by weight of water, so it stays effective at keeping you warm – and it dries easily if it does become wet."
True, that does not say it will work if it is completely saturated with a constant flow of water moving through it. However, it would have to be one heck of a puncture in my drysuit to get that wet.
If there is something that is thinner, lighter and works better, please let me know. I'd be interested in adding it to my collection. :cheerleader:

on land the fabric is able to push the water out of the weave, retaining an airspace for insulation. was you submerge, the water pressure will force the air out of weave. in order to remain dry and warm, it has to push the water out somewhere, and in a flooded drysuit there is nowhere for it to go. yes, it will take more than a puncture to completely flood, but i know of at least one person on this board who did have a complete failure of their drysuit and ended up completely flooded.
for small leaks, parts of the material will be soaked, but chances are that water will be spread around the fabric, allowing it to retain loft, and thus warmth. but a complete flood, and you loose all thermal value.

i'll be diving wet over the 4th of July, but i'll bring some of the stuff i use with my drysuit.

the only fabric that I know of that will keep you warm when it gets wet (completly soaked) is wool.

yeah, that was true in the first half of the 20th century, but technology has surpassed nature in that regard. wet wool will retain less than 40% of your body heat. thinsulate and polartech fleece are performance fabrics which surpass wool in pretty much all aspects.
OK, lets make a deal. If you stop telling me how to dive, I'll stop going down to the bus station at 2am to slap d***s out of your mouth.

#24 Dive_Girl

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 10:01 AM

Who makes the cool max stuff?

Try here: Coolmax. "Coolmax® fabrics are designed to move moisture away from the body and enhance fabric drying rate thus, keeping you feeling cool and dry." Coolmax was my clothing of choice when I was on the water outrigging.

My Weezle undergarment is designed to behave similarly - to wick the moisture or water away from the skin to the outside of the undergarment, thus keeping me dry. It can't obviously wick away a full flood. Floods do scare me up where I live when considering more advanced dives. I canceled a deep diving weekend in February this year due to various conditions/reasons - looking at my in-water time in the event of a deco gas failure or drysuit failure was one of the reasons. The next weekend I dove is when my drysuit neck seal split and then the replacement came off my suit the following day resulting in a FULL flood. I managed 45 in-water minutes in 46 degree water. I do like my weezle. I obviously made it through the dive. But I certainly wasn't warm. In-fact I don't recall anything but sheer pain.

This thread has some amazingly great info about undergarments and coming from you warmer water divers (save for those outtings in the quarry) no less... :P

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#25 ScubaDadMiami

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 10:17 AM

This thread has some amazingly great info about undergarments and coming from you warmer water divers (save for those outtings in the quarry) no less... :cool1:


Hey, there's a reason why we are "warmer water divers:" 'Cause it's warm! :P
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#26 Diverbrian

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 11:12 AM

But, the wrecks are far better preserved in cold water :cool1: and cost me less travel time and money to get to.

Seriously, if I waited until I could get to warm water, I would do a lot less diving than I do. I take advantage of the nice wrecks here and get thicker undergarments to dive them. Right now, I am diving two layers of 200 gm Thinsulate. It's a bit bulkier than I prefer, but it keeps me warm on long deco hangs. The other advantage is that the one layer of 200 gm works nicely for me in places like Brockville which do have 70+ degree water.

But, that isn't to say that I am not interested in acquiring something like a Weezel or Lite Loft for a better experience on my pristine Great Lakes Wrecks.
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#27 hnladue

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Posted 24 May 2006 - 12:40 PM

You guys are all wussies!!!! I dive WET!!! But I do wait for the lake to get up to the 70's before going in! Or at least the surface temp needs to be in the 70's-80's.
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